Method of transferring and directing the darts in a dress pattern

ABSTRACT

A method or system of relocating the darts of a dress pattern is disclosed so that the darts in the finished dress will always point to the highest point, or apex, of a body curve, as for example the bust, hips, etc.

United States Patent [1 1 Mrak [ 1 Apr. 16, 1974 METHOD OF TRANSFERRING AND DIRECTING THE DARTS IN A DRESS PATTERN Inventor: Dusan Mrak, New York, NY.

Scovill Manufacturing Company, Waterbury, Conn.

Filed: Aug. 24, 1972 App]. No.: 283,381

Related US. Application Data Division of Ser. N0. 110,555, Jan. 28, 1971, abandoned, which is a continuation-in-part of Ser. No. 18,252, March 10, 1970, abandoned.

Assignee:

[1.5. CI. 33/17 R, 33/12 Int. Cl A4lh 3/00 Field of Search 33/14, 16, 17 R [56] References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,783,004 11/1930 Smith 33/14 2,054,715 9/1936 Stack '33/14 Primary Examiner-Louis R. Prince Assistant Examiner-Charles E. Phillips Attorney, Agent, or Firm-Dallett Hoopes [5 7] ABSTRACT A method or system of relocating the darts of a dress pattern is disclosed, so that the darts in the finished dress will always point to the highest point, or apex, of a body curve, as for example the bust, hips, etc.

4 Claims, 11 Drawing Figures WOR K SURFACE PATENTEDAPR 16 I974 SHEET 1 0F 3 WORK SURFACE INVENTOR DUSAN MRAK KQQM ATTORNEY F/GS FlG4f PATENTEDAPR 1s m 8.803.717

sum 2 or 3 WORK SURFACE INVENTOR DU 5 A N MRA K BY M F/G. 7 F 8 PATENTEDAPRIB IBM 333831717 sum 3 or 3 [WORK SURFACE F169 FIGIO FIGII METHOD OF TRANSFERRING AND DIRECTING I THE DARTS IN A DRESS PATTERN RELATED APPLICATIONS This application constitutes a divisional application of my co-pending patent application, Ser. No. 1 10,555, deposited in the U. S. Patent Office on or about Jan. 28, 1971, entitled Dress Pattern and Method of Transferring and Directing the Darts, now abandoned, which in turn was a continuation-in-part of Ser. No. 18,252 filed Mar. 10, 1970, now abandoned.

PROBLEM AND PRIOR ART In dressmaking, dependent upon the desired styling of a given pattern, it was frequently necessary, to improve fit or to change style, for the dres'smaker to transfer or shift darts, as for example, the shoulder darts, underarm darts, and the like.

In the shifting and/or transferring of such darts it is of utmost importance to compensate for the body measurements of the wearer. It is also imperative that the dart, when relocated as by transferring or shifting, always point to the highest point of the curve, that is to the apex of the particular body curve, as for example, the bust, hips, etc., in the correct dress size. Heretofore, whenever it was necessary to effect relocation of such darts, the average dressmaker was confronted with a considerable problem in attempting to relocate the dart in a particular size dress pattern so that the dart would always point to the apex of the curve.

OBJECTS It is an object of this invention to provide a method for effecting the accurate relocation of darts to accommodate for various pattern alterations or modifications.

Another object is to provide a method for effecting the accurate relocation of darts on a dress pattern which is simple and easy to execute.

Another object is to provide a method for effecting the relocation of a dart in a manner which insures that the dart is pointed to the optimum high point of a body curve.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In the event the darts of a particular dress pattern are required to be relocated, for either maintaining the style of the dress and/or for directing the dart toward the high point or apex of a body curve, the present invention contemplates a method to facilitate such relocation accurately. The method comprises the steps of essentially locating the apex or the high point of a body curve on a given pattern or dress outline by the intersection of two body measurements, and extending the centerline of the new dart location through the point of intersection or body apex. The existing dart is then extended to touch on the centerline of the new dart location that extends through the apex. The point at which the existing dart intersects the centerline of the new dart location defines a pivot apex. The existing dart as extended is then cut out of the pattern along the lines defining the same. The pattern is also severed along the centerline of the new dart location so that the pattern in the vicinity of the new dart location. The severed portions are re-secured as by adhesive tape, and the new dart thus defined may be lengthened or shortened as required by the particular dress size. The resulting dart is thus directed toward the body apex.

FEATURES A feature of this invention resides in the provision of a simplified method for effecting the relocation of darts and to assure that the dart is always directed to the high point of a body curve.

Another feature of this invention resides in the provision of a method in which the darts may be readily relocated to maintain the dress styling when the standard outline of the pattern in required to be altered to accommodate the particular body measurements of a given wearer.

Other features and advantages will become more readily apparent when considered in view of the description and drawings in which:

FIGS. l-S illustrate sequentially the manner of effecting the relocation of a dart in accordance with the present invention.

FIGS. 9-11 illustrate the additional sequential steps required for effecting the shifting of darts in accordance with the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION Referring more specifically to the drawings, when the standard dress pattern 12 is required to be altered or tailored, it is important to provide for relocation of any of the darts, e.g., 14 (FIG. 1), which must be formed. Generally, darts are required to accommodate body curves, as for example, busts, hips, etc. For proper styling, the dart 14 should always point to the highest point, i.e., the apex, of the particular body curve in the correct size, and that preferably they must end one or two inches short of the apex.

' To effect the relocation of the underarm dart, for example, as depicted at 14 in FIG. 1, itis necessary that the entire dart be moved, and not just the apex point. To change the style of the pattern when altered to on'es measurements, one must be able to effect the transfer of the dart to any location required by the design.

In accordance with this invention, at least the first steps for transferring a dart are similar regardless of where the new dart is placed. Accordingly, invisible darts, that is,'darts placed into the seam, as for example in a princess styled dress, may be also formed by the method described. The arrangement is such that the pivot for a dart is always at the point where the extended centerline of the old or existing dart on the pattern crosses the centerline of the new dart. If the transferr'ed new dart is too long or too short, it should be shortened or lengthened as will be hereinafter described.

Even if the dart is to be moved only one or two inches in either direction for a higher or lower apex, a complete transfer must be made some 45 in any direction with respect to a pivot from the existing dart to a temporary location. The new temporary dart once opened must be adjusted exactly to reach the body apex as the body apex in such cases becomes the pivot. The temporary dart is then simply transferred back to its previous seam line by severing the pattern along a line perpendicular to the original seam line and passing through the body apex and then by pivoting the severed portion a about the body apex. After the transfer, the final dart may be shortened from the apex.

Thus, darts can be shifted successfully only if the entire dart is moved and not merely its point. The apex of a particular body curve is found by the angulation of at least two measurements. For example, a body measurement is taken of the wearer of the dress from the center of the shoulder seam to the center of the wearers bust as along line X in FIG. 1. This distance is marked off on the pattern. Another measurement is taken from the underarm seam, i.e., along line Y substantially perpendicular to the underarm seam to the center of the bust on the body of the wearer, at the same level to define with the first measurement a point of intersection of the two measurements. The intersection of these measurement locates the position of the wearers apex on the pattern. The apex of the bust is indicated in FIG. 1 at body apex 20 for a particular wearer.

The location of the new dart is positioned on the pattern at a location which best suits and/or complements the wearers figure or as required by an individual design. In FIG. 2, the centerline of the new dart is located along line 21 substantially perpendicular to the shoulder seam. However, the centerline 21 of the new dart must always cross the body apex 20 and extend beyond it if necessary. The latter will depend on the direction or location of the centerline 14A of the old dart 14, as the respective centerlines 21 and 14A of the new dart and the old dart respectively must intersect, as indicated on FIG. 3. Thus, the intersection of the centerline 14A of the old dart with the centerline 21 of the new dart may be made by a straight edge to extend the centerline thereof so that the two lines cross. The crossing of the two centerlines thus defines a pivot point or point apex 22 as indicated in FIG. 3. Upon location of the pivot apex 22, the outside lines 14B14B of the' old dart 14 are moved or arranged to extend along lines l4B-14B' from the pivot apex 22 to the respective outer seam edges of the dart, as illustrated in FIG. 3.

The dressmaker then cuts out of the pattern, the old dart defined by lines l4B'-l4B, as indicated in FIG. 5. The dressmaker also severs the pattern along the centerline 21 of the newly proposed dart as indicated in FIG. 7. This step results in the pattern of the garment portion 12 being cut into two pieces 23 and 24. With the pattern thus severed, as in FIG. 5, the severed portion 24 of the pattern is rotated, as for example, in a counterclockwise direction about pivot apex 22 to effect the closing of the old dart 14. When the opposed edges 14B of the old dart are disposed in substantially coincident position, as seen in FIG. 6, the severed portion 24 is secured to the main portion 23 of the pattern along line 148', as for example, by a strip of pressure adhesive tape 26 or the like. In doing so the new dart 27 is now open or transferred to the shoulder portion of the garment.

However, if thenew dart opening 27 appears to be too long it can be readily adjusted to desired length as indicated in F IGS- 7 and 8. This is attained by. locating a piece of paper 28 under the open new dart 27 of the pattern as indicated in FIG. 7. To shorten or lengthen the dart once it has been transferred as indicated in FIG. 6, the paper 28 attached to the pattern provides the necessary drawing area to effect the change in the length of the dart. Since all darts should normally end about one inch from the body apex, correct sizing of the new dart may be shortened or lengthened by dividing the width of the dart in half, and drawing a new centerline 27A to the pivot apex. The dressmaker then measures one inch from the body apex on the new centerline 27A and marks a point of reference as indicated at 30 (FIG. 8) thereon. The sides 27B of dart 27 are then drawn from reference point 30 to the outside seam points 2929 of the dart. If the dart is to be hidden, as for example in a princess seam, so as to continue in the form of a seam, then the dart should be adjusted to its body apex length.

If it is desired to transfer the dart back now to a proper position on the underarm seam, the transferred new dart is cutout to the body apex 20 (FIG. 9). Next, a line 31 is drawn substantially perpendicular to the underarm seam (FIG. 10) from the underarm seam to the new pivot apex (in this case the pivot apex coincides with the body apex 20). The pattern is severed along I the underarm line 31 as shown in FIG. 10. The severed pattern portion 31A is rotated about pivot apex 20 clockwise to close the formed shoulder dart and open the underarm dart. The closed shoulder dart may then be sealed with tape 32 (FIG. 11). To bring the new shifted dart to correct length, the steps described with respect to FIGS. 7 and 8 are repeated. That is, apiece of paper is placed under the pattern at the shifted dart location, and a centerline of the newly shifted dart located. The newly shifted dart is then shortened to a point one to two inches from the apex, and the sides of the dart are drawn from the latter point of reference to the outer seam points.

It should be understood that the steps described in connection with shifting the dart from underarm to shoulder (FIGS. 1 through 9) may be used if the dart on the pattern is'a shoulder dart and it is desired to shift it to an underarm dart. It is only necessary to establish by body measurement the body apex on the pattern, draw a reasonably horizontal line from the underarm to the body apex, sever the last-mentioned line up to its intersection with the old dart centerline and rotate the severed pattern section about the intersection (called herein the pivot apex) to close the old dart and open the new. A shortening of the new underarm dart is then effected as described.

As the invention'has been defined with respect to a particular embodiment thereof, it will be readily understood and appreciated that variations and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention.

I claim:

l. A method of relocating a dart initially'located on a first seam on a dress pattern so that the new dart will point to the highest point or apex of a curve on the wearers body, comprising the steps of:

a. locating a body apex on the pattern corresponding to the apex of the curve by measuring in from the margins of the pattern corresponding to two body measurements;

b. defining a centerline at the location of the dart to be formed, the location being selected on a second seam at least 45 away from the old dart as measured about the body apex, and extending the centerline to the body apex;

0. extending the old dart to meet the centerline at a point to define a pivot apex;

d. cutting the extended old dart out of the pattern, and severing the pattern along said centerline to the pivot apex; and

e. pivoting the severed portion of the pattern about said pivot apex to fill the space of said extended old dart.

2. The method as defined in claim 1 and including the step of bringing the new dart to its correct length as required by the pattern.

3. The method as defined in claim 1 and including the additional steps of shortening the new dart to correct length by securing a piece of material under the new dart opening, dividing the width of the new dart in half, drawing a centerline along said divided dart to said pivot apex, locating a reference point on said latter centerline at a point approximately one to two inches the final dart to the correct length. 

1. A method of relocating a dart initially located on a first seam on a dress pattern so that the new dart will point to the highest point or apex of a curve on the wearer''s body, comprising the steps of: a. locating a body apex on the pattern corresponding to the apex of the curve by measuring in from the margins of the pattern corresponding to two body measurements; b. defining a centerline at the location of the dart to be formed, the location being selected on a second seam at least 45* away from the old dart as measured about the body apex, and extending the centerline to the body apex; c. extending the old dart to meet the centerline at a point to define a pivot apex; d. cutting the extended old dart out of the pattern, and severing the pattern along said centerline to the pivot apex; and e. pivoting the severed portion of the pattern about said pivot apex to fill the space of said extended old dart.
 2. The method as defined in claim 1 and including the step of bringing the new dart to its correct length as required by the pattern.
 3. The method as defined in claim 1 and including the additional steps of shortening the new dart to correct length by securing a piece of material under the new dart opening, dividing the width of the new dart in half, drawing a centerline along said divided dart to said pivot apex, locating a reference point on said latter centerline at a point approximately one to two inches toward the first seam from said body apex, and connecting said reference point to the lateral extremes of the outer end of said new dart.
 4. The invention as defined in claim 1 and including the additional steps of adjusting the new dart to the body apex, locating a final dart centerline from the first seam to the body apex, cutting out the adjusted new dart and severing the pattern along the final dart centerline, and closing the new dart by rotating the severed part of the pattern about said body apex and adjusting the final dart to the correct length. 